Tool List
Below is a basic list of tools that we would recommend that you take on the trip. If you are a competent mechanic you may want to take more tools with you, which is fine, but do consider whether you will actually need everything you take - I have found in the past that I have taken far too many tools, which is all excess weight.
1 |
Socket Set |
As a basic starting block, aim for a standard metric 1/2" (the size of the connection with the sockets) Flank Drive or Wall-Drive (they grip the walls od the nuts/bolts as opposed to the corners and work better with rusty or awkward nuts/bolts) socket set that includes extension bars, ratchet, etc. Aim for a set that provides sockets ranging from 8mm through to 32mm if possible. I actually prefer using a combination of a 3/8" set and 1/4" because they are lighter and more comfortable to use, but would only recommend these ranges if you are getting top quallity professional tools from the likes of Snap-On or Sealey. A good compromise is a combination set that contains all three sizes. |
2 |
Torque Wrench |
It is essential that you don't over or under tighten bolts when working on your truck so get a Torque wrench. Aim for a reasonable quality 1/2" one with a range of 0-150Ft-lbs - this should cover you for most requirements |
3 |
Breaker Bar |
Occasionally you will come across a really stubborn nut or bolt or a situation where you need some gentle pressure - aim for a 1/2" breaker that is at least 2 foot long |
4 |
Spanners |
Aim for a set of ring/open ended metric spanners extending from 6 or 8mm through to 19mm. It is also worth additionally getting a 22mm, 24mm, and 27mm spanners for some of the suspension arms. Halfords do a great set or spanners with flexible ratchets on the end - these are great tools, but aren't cheap and I wouldn't take them on their own, some times the flexi head can be more of a hinderence than a help. |
5 |
Screwdrivers |
You can usually get sets of around half a dozen assorted flat blade and phillips screwdrivers that will do most jobs. If they aren't in the kit, make sure you get a large heavy duty flat blade screwdriver that can double as a lever. |
6 |
Pliers/wire cutters |
Again you can often get sets of these - aim for a set with at least standard pliers, long nosed pliers and some wire cutters. |
7 |
Allen Keys |
You can pickup standard sets of metric allen keys - don't aim for cheap ones that might break or bend easily. |
8 |
Punches/Cold Chisel |
You can usually pick up a set containing several punches and a couple of cold chisels - aim for the best quality you can |
9 |
Hammers |
One of the most useful tools I use is a copper faced mallet/hammer - with one of these you seldom need another hammer. The only downside is that you will need to get these from a Motor Factors or online. |
10 |
54mm Hub Socket |
Most bush mechanics won't use these, preferring to use a hammer and cold chisel, however if you want the job done properly you really need to get one of these. Currently the best source of these is Snap-On here and then you can modify it with an angle grinder so that it will also fit the rear hub nuts. |
11 |
Head Torch |
Head torches are invaluable whilst overlanding anyway, but also pretty useful when working under your truck or in poor light. So far I have had the best success with the Energiser range of LED based head torches. |
12 |
Electrical Crimp Kit |
You are highly unlikey to get many electrical problems that can't be solved with a bit of insulating tape, but if you are inclined get youself one of the small crimp connector kits, with the crimp tool and some spare connectors |
13 |
Stanley Knife |
It's always handy to have either a very sharp ppenknife or a stanley knife. Don't forget a set of spare blades |
14 |
Wire Brushes |
It's always worth having at least one wire brush for cleaning bolts and other components. |
15 |
Gas Soldering Iron |
Possibly a little overboard for most people a small gas soldering iron with solder and spare gas is always handy for electrical joints and heat shrinking. |
16 |
Heavy Duty Jump Leads |
A decent set of heavy duty jump leads are one of those essential pieces of kit you shouldn't do without, howevr be warned they are heavy! |
17 |
Files |
Get yourself at least one hand file, or a set of different shaped ones, younever know when you will need it. |
18 |
Seal Puller |
If you have the space, get yourself a seal puller, it's very handy for pulling out the Inner Axle Seals or stubborn hub seals. |
19 |
Snap Ring Pliers |
Only really available from Motor Factors, these are pretty usefull if you have to work on the wheel bearings, like tightening them up. |
20 |
Grease Gun |
Essential for regularly greasing the Universal Joints on the prop shafts. Ideally aim for one with a flexible end and a decent quality connector on the end for getting at awkward nipples. Oh, and don't forget to get some grease for it. |
21 |
Multi-Meter |
These are essential for diagnosing electrical problems. You can pick one up from most places for not much money. If you can, get one that is also clamp meter which is useful for tracing odd battery drain issues and the condition of the alternator. |
22 |
Workshop Manual |
Probably one of the most essential things to have is a half decent manual. If you look hard enough you can probably download most of the factory manuals from the web in PDF format. But if you can't the Haynes manuals are good enough to get you out of most situations - you can order these either direct from the Haynes website (http://www.haynes.co.uk/) or via eBay. |
23 |
A bit of old Carpet |
A few people have questioned me about this, however if you have to work on your truck in a muddy field, in the desert or beside a rocky track, laying down a carpet first will give you a bit oof comfort under your knees as well a surface to put down the bits of the car you take off without getting them covered in dirt or lost in the sand. |
24 |
Hacksaw |
It is always worth taking along a normal sized hacksaw and also what is generally termed a 'junior' hacksaw and don't forget to take some spare blades with you. |